Dear friends,
Before Santa arrived, even before I broke out my advent chocolate calendar, I made the best black bean soup ever. I saved the recipe until now, when I thought many of you would have leftover Christmas ham bones to simmer. Back in early November, it didn’t occur to me that Covid would spike so high after Thanksgiving that many of us would stay home, cooking Christmas dinner for two or a few.
No matter. Even if you did not have a Christmas ham, I’m sure enough hams were sold this month that ham stores are practically giving away ham bones. Now is the time to make that black bean soup.
The framework of the recipe is from Sarah Leah Chase’s “Cold-Weather Cooking.” But where Chase uses chicken broth, I use a meaty ham bone. I also leave out a few frills such as lime juice and chopped cilantro to limit trips to the store. The soup is no worse for the omissions. On the contrary, it could win a soup contest even in its stripped down and beefed up (hammed up?) state.
BLACK BEAN AND HAM SOUP
For the broth:
1 meaty ham bone, about 2 cups of the ham cubed and set aside
1/4 to 1/2 cup of ham fat scraps, set aside
1 small onion, halved (no need to peel)
Soup:
2 tbsp. olive oil plus scraps of ham fat
1 large onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, chopped
4 carrots, peeled and cut in small cubes
1/4 cup ground cumin
1/4 cup dried oregano
1 pound dried black beans, soaked in water to cover overnight
Salt, pepper
1/4 cup sherry
The reserved 2 cups of diced ham
For the broth, place ham bone in a soup kettle and cover with 5 quarts of water. Cut onion in half lengthwise and add. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for at least 3 hours, adding more water when necessary, until broth tastes rich. Remove bone and when cool, pick off remaining ham and add to the cubed ham. Set aside. Strain broth through a sieve. You should have 3 1/2 to 4 quarts.
For the soup, heat olive oil and ham scraps in a soup pot until the fat is rendered and crisp. Remove crisp pieces with a slotted spoon and discard. Add onion and sauté over medium heat until softened. Add garlic and carrots and sauté until garlic is golden but not browned.
Stir in cumin and oregano. Drain the beans and add to the pot. Season with salt and pepper. Add ham broth. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer uncovered until beans are tender and beginning to fall apart, about 2 hours.
Taste the soup and add more salt if needed. Stir in the reserved ham and the sherry. Return to a simmer and cook until ham is heated through. Ladle into bowls to serve. Makes 8 to 10 servings.
GUT CHECK
What I cooked last week:
Baked tofu with peanut sauce, stir-fried bok choy with ginger and garlic, steamed rice; orange-cranberry cookies; pan-grilled filet mignons with port wine-blue cheese sauce, baked potatoes, chopped broccoli rabe with onions, garlic and hot pepper flakes; Japanese Christmas cake; no-knead bread; roast duck with cranberry glaze, mashed potatoes, roasted Brussels sprouts, deviled eggs; sous vide porterhouse steak, baked potatoes, roast butternut squash; miso ramen noodle soup; scrambled cheesy eggs and toast; Japanese pork curry.
What I ordered out:
Tacos from Taco Bell (I’m ashamed; I was too lazy to drive to Funky Truckeria in Norton).
THE MAILBAG
From Kelly M.:
Losing a pet is so much harder than one would think it should be. My heart goes out to you. And thank you for all the wonderful shopping, cooking, and writing you do for your readers. Seeing an email from you always makes me happy.
From Tracey C.:
Thank you so much for your newsletter and the wonderful gift it is in my week-to-week world. I am so sorry to hear about your adorable little guy. At the same time, I’m glad he has you to care for him in his time of need.
I share your feelings about the ridiculous juxtaposition of the devastating effects of the pandemic with the seemingly ordinariness of our behavior. And the way the virus has amplified the income inequality around us is heartbreaking, too. Here in the Raleigh area the housing market is going through the roof, but my daughter lost her restaurant job in March and her $140 unemployment benefits are due to run out unless lawmakers come through.
Yet I totally agree that cooking is therapeutic. It’s been so helpful to me, and I’m grateful to have your newsletter as a part of my culinary escape in this crazy time.
Hope you had a nice holiday, in spite of all the forces to the contrary.
From Annie:
I am so sorry to hear that Oscar is not doing well. I pray he comes through as I know he is your best buddy. Thank you for your thoughtful words on the season. We, too, are doing those holiday things despite what is going on around us, and we will celebrate with much fewer family around us this year. My best to you and Tony for the holidays and thank you every week for you column.
From Peggy P.:
Thanks for today’s newsletter. You make my week!
Agreed, not the same Christmas traditions this year. In a salute to the different kind of year, we decided to forgo ham and /or turkey. We thought we would enjoy simple spaghetti, which soon evolved to homemade sauce from San Marzano tomatoes with refrigerated angel hair from DeViti’s. The meal was bookended with a leafy salad and peanut fudge pie. Different but special. Different year. Special foods for people who avoid carbs, especially white sugar.
So may you and Tony have a special, different day this year. And maybe we are creating new traditions for the future. Best regards for your little one. Sad news.
Dear Kelly, Tracey, Annie, Peggy and everyone else who wrote:
Thank you for the kind words about both our rotten year and my ailing dog. Oscar is still with us and is now eating on his own. Not much, but enough to balance the insulin shots.
Tony and I had a lovely Christmas. We were happy Oscar finally wagged his tail, and we dined heartily on roast duck with Champaign Christmas eve and a three-inch-thick porterhouse Christmas day. I Facetimed my brother and my sister, as I imagine many of you did with your families.
Stay home. Take care. Let’s make it a happy new year.